That’s right: The magazine’s best burger honors went to Superiority Burger, a 100% vegan/vegetarian burger spot in New York City’s East Village, operated by chef (and former punk drummer) Brooks Headley. I was intrigued, but not convinced. I love me some veggie burgers (and I’ve had some really tasty ones before) but even I have to admit that it’s tough to beat actual beef when a burger hankering strikes. So I took a trip to the East Village to judge the Superiority Burger for myself. I planned to arrive right as the restaurant opened at 6 PM on a chilly Sunday night. When I strolled up to the door at 6:01, there was already a line about 10 people long snaking down the sidewalk. When the doors finally opened, we filed into a tiny basement space covered in gleaming white subway tile, with about five seats and one counter for eating while standing. An orange cooler dispensed “Superiority Water” (NYC tap water with lemon) free of charge, while punk music blasted from the speakers. MORE: The 8 Cleanest Veggie Burgers You Can Buy The line moved quickly, but by the time I ordered, the entire space was stuffed full of people, all standing shoulder-to-shoulder—this is not a dining experience for the claustrophobic. But the burger almost made me forget about the fact that I couldn’t really move my arms anywhere: It was that good. The patty itself is made from ingredients the chef won’t disclose, but I detected the familiar crunch of quinoa, and I agree with GQ’s assessment of its “nutty” flavor. It was crisp on the edges and soft throughout the center—exactly the way homemade veggie patties should be. But the dominant flavor wasn’t the patty, really. It was the mustard slathered on the bottom bun. If you’re an anti-mustard person, definitely ask to nix it. If you’re a mustard lover, you’ll be in spicy, sinus-tingling heaven. Other highlights: fresh, crispy pickles, a savory roasted tomato (like ketchup on steroids), and crunchy iceberg lettuce for a refreshing contrast to the mustard’s heat. The bun was a bit squished but still delicious: It had that addictive, starchy sweetness you get from potato bread or brioche. (Can’t make it to NYC for one of these? Try making your own veggie burgers.) My only qualm? It needed more cheese. The slice of Muenster was super thin—which is great when you’re enjoying cheese all on its own, but kind of problematic when it’s buried beneath stronger flavors. And if you do make your way to Superiority Burger, know that the burgers are more slider-size than entrée-size. You’ll probably need two to fill you up, but at $6 a pop, even a couple won’t break the bank. Is it the best burger I’ve ever had? That’s tough to say. But it’s certainly better than a lot of the real meat burgers I’ve choked down at barbecues and potlucks over the years. Consider the Superiority Burger as final proof that, yes, meatless can be superior to meat. At one tiny, cramped restaurant in New York City, it already is.
